RN&RM SURFING EXPEDITION

BIARRITZ FRANCE JUNE 2002  

  

On a sunny May morning seven Navy and five Marines set off from Poole Ferry Terminal for the RN&RM Surfing Expedition to Biarritz, South West France. With the Land rover loaded with surfboards stacked four feet high, it looked like the trip was for ten months rather than ten days.

 

Having arrived in France Thursday evening the relentless journey South began with the first lesson “never lose each other on the road!”  Fortunately contact was made via that modern day gadget the mobile phone and we were under way again.  The next problem was a knocking sound to the mini bus, (no we hadn’t picked up an confused illegal immigrant), but thanks to Tony Rowlands (VM 1) and a little spanner magic, we were on our way once more.  But then problem three – no fuel!  For some reason the local Frenchies did not like the look of  Shaun Moloney and had assumed that we’d refuelled without paying.  After a very heated discussion we left on fumes and no fuel.  Fortunately, fuel was eventually found (after the interesting scenario of losing the fuel cap key) and at last we could make headway south.  (Well, they do say that trouble comes in threes.)

 

After a backside numbing twelve hour journey, with the drivers spending around two and a half hours at the wheel (Andy Williams?) we reached Biarritz. After a quick surf check at Le Barre, a favourite surf spot, it was off to the HQ for the week, the camp site of Lafitenia.  Up went the tents, out came the food, surfboards and the swamp tree was identified, which by the end of the week had grown to the size of the campsite. (Amazing how those swamp trees grow!)

 

Home sweet home at Lafitenia

 

Beautiful Clean Waves at Sunny Lafitenia  

In the afternoon, the first of many visits to Le Barre (and McDonalds) started the surf

training. Seven of the squad surfed in clean 3 – 4 foot waves with the others staying behind at the campsite.  The day ended back at Lafitenia with a “not so happy” Frenchman packing his tent and moving on.  (Wouldn’t you if your swamp tree had been taken over).  The lads were happy, as the surf was good with the sun out and everyone testing the water.

 

 

Si Parry cruising at Le Barre

Saturday started with the alarm clock voice of  Pete McCelland (the most enthusiastic and optimistic surfer in the group) waking everyone up.  The crowds started to appear at Lafitenia – so it was off to Le Barre again.  The swell had picked up 4 - 6 feet so we were all in. (“Thank you Andy Williams for nearly taking my head off when we both went for the same wave!”)  

 

Another cruiser at Le Barre – Pete McLelland 

After surfing for a couple of hours followed by a much-needed stop at McDonald’s we visited the factory shops near Hossegor where the surf gear is cheaper than at home.  Lt Cdr Colin Pryde, I am certain must have received a commendation from the French president for the amount of surf gear he bought, but complaints from the local French children will never leave my mind after Tony Rowland bought up all the trousers, and they were not for his little girl either (“Umpa-lumpa Tony!”)  

Sunday morning started early for all and yet again the swell was getting bigger. Time for the four chargers in the pack, Pete, Mark, Chris, and Si to surf Lafitenia.  The left breaks always a good four foot bigger than Lafitenia’s right.  With waves in the range of 10-12 feet all you could see was little dots taking off on monster waves with hoots coming from all in the water.  

 

Big left at Lafitenia 

The rest of the group surfed the right with the Count of Lafitenia a local guy that welcomed the British with “all his heart … Not!”   Some good waves were caught with peaks of 6 – 8 foot in size.  

 

The Right at Lafitenia  

Meanwhile the longboarders (Colin, Frenchy, Dickie and Dave) had enough of a thrashing at Lafitenia and headed for Cote de Basque and  chilled out on perfect 3 foot clean waves for the rest of the day. Only problem was Colin’s board deciding to have a melt down in the land rover over lunch resulting in the nose resembling a Cornish pasty.  

In the afternoon Si, Tony, Shaun Maloney, Andy Williams, Griff and Chris Ward checked out the surf sport of Les Cavaliers and bumped into ex world champion surfer Tom Curran, who lives locally. After much pleading from Si, Tom agreed in having a photo with the group whom were as happy as a group of Japanese school girls meeting Boyzone!!  Once the photo call had finished a few of the “school girls” entertained Griff, Dickey, Dave, Frenchy, Colin and myself by surfing further up the beach at Le Barre in 6 – 8 foot “close-out” waves.  Plenty of applause from the ones watching, with wave after wave crashing down on all in the water. The evening was spent with everyone together in a restaurant – the topic of conversation “who received the biggest “hold-down by a wave” that day!  

 

Andy Williams – Le Barre  

Bank holiday Monday turned out to be a scorcher of a day and with this in mind and the crowds growing at Lafitenia it was decided to travel to Hossegor and seek out the famous beach breaks.  Unfortunately, the peaks were crowded and the surf had dropped to 2 – 4 feet.  (Or was it 1 – 7 feet clean but messy Si?)  But you couldn’t complain with great weather and clean waves to be had.  Ask Griff who paddled out, turned around, took off… bang… straight into a barrel and back out again.   The locals went wild and the others stared in disbelief at what they’d just seen.  

 

Classic Hossegor  

At this point I must thank the lads for keeping my strength up during the day by providing me with subsidence.   The very fact that I had to walk the whole length of the beach and dive into the water whilst only wearing red Speedo’s and white surfing helmet was part of the deal.  However, morale was down as no one else had scored a barrel wave but Griff, and being head of sport and entertainment, I never shirk my responsibilities.  

 

Chris Ward coming off the lip at Hossegor 

After the wind got up in the late afternoon it was time to head back to the camp and finish for the day (Robbie Nash, world champion wind-surfer, was spotted by myself, but no one cared – after all, wind-surfing is not surfing.) 

After a stormy, wet night, Tuesday started with … yes, more surfing.  The big wave crew ventured off to Lafitenia’ left, which was breaking in the 10-14 feet region.  Pete McClelland and Mark (American exchange pilot from RNAS Culdrose) had big hold downs and returned speechless and with no colour in their faces after being washed pin-balling in between the rocks and into the bay.

I thought I would impress the team and take off on a ten footer at Lafitenia right.  Unfortunately, the board detached itself from my feet and down I went top to bottom freefalling onto the rocks below.  Up I popped with half a board and a headache, not to mention a hurt pride.  At least I had a good workout when it took me 20 minutes to swim back to the beach. (Well you do have to keep your fitness up!)  

After another stop at McDonalds the rest of the day was spent shopping for bargains in the local sports shops, mainly because the local surf spots were out of control and not very inviting.  That evening we all ate together with Mark, Pete and Scott spending their last night in France. 

Wednesday.  Yet another wet and stormy night and some tent damage to start the day.  One by one, like creatures from the grave, bodies started to emerge from the flooded swamp-like campsite.  The continuous turn around of surfing started with the waves at Lafitenia six foot plus and growing.  Most of us had good waves, with drops from top to bottom that would make a Hawaiian proud.  We are all sure that if Tony Rowlands wasn’t such a compact “Welsh Wizard” he could never have made the monster waves he was surfing! (“Umpa-Lumpa umpe-de-do!”).  

 

Tony “compact” Rowlands - Lafitenia  

In the afternoon Andy Williams and Si Parry witnessed why you should never trust the ocean!  

With a building, storm swell, added to the incoming tide, the conditions at Lafitenia changed dramatically within the space of thirty minutes.  The waves were increasing in size with every set becoming angry, onshore bombs that thinned a crowd from twenty-five plus to seven within minutes.   

By this time there was a lot of water moving about in the bay with a bad rip on the south of the beach. Still the waves increased in size and as we watched someone went over the falls (fell top to bottom) only to emerge with half the board he’s started with.  To say he’d had a hard time paddling in would be an understatement.  The next victim was a long-boarder whom’s leash snapped only to get caught in “the rip from hell!”  After fifteen minutes of getting nowhere, a long-boarder, who was watching from the beach, went into rescue him only to have his leash snapped as well.  Eventually they were both washed in, backsides kicked!!  

The conditions by this time was horrendous, with waves breaking on unseen reefs and sand bars, far, far out to sea.  The guys that had trouble were lucky to escape lightly and were taught never to underestimate the power of the sea.

Wednesday finished with the heavens opening up and the waves getting bigger and out of control.  It was time to check out the big wave spot of Guethary but as predicted it was too big, too out of control.  After an exciting day and minus Pete McCellend’s enthusiastic voice the group made their way to Biarritz to celebrate  Frenchy’s birthday at the Surf Grill Bar, a place well worth a visit with more surf memorabilia than Colin Pryde!  

Thursday we awoke to mediocre conditions compared to what had been an excellent week of waves. The storm at sea had left the swell big and messed up. The day was spent moving tents and driving to assess other surf spots, but with no luck.  Due to the lack of surfing during the day we all managed to make it ashore by 8.15pm, a record in itself!  The intention was to have one final night in Biarritz, eat a good meal, drink a few pints and wake in the morning with numb teeth which according to ex-club surfer Dave Ryan, always brings the surf in. (So that’s why he was always so sober!)  

Friday.  True to form the surf had picked up again, with 6 – 8 feet clean offshore blue-green waves.  Si was the first out to miss the crowds, which is a lesson in not drinking, and he reaped the rewards with a few tasty right-handers.  

After chasing the waves around Biarritz and Le Barre we made our way back to Lafitenia only to count the numbers in the water.  One peak to thirty surfers, last day.  So what could we do but go in again and chance it with the “ever-so friendly” locals.  

“Big wave” Dave had a few waves on the inside section, but the Frenchies were the main wave huggers.  But when you take off as deep as they do you have to take your hat off and watch them surf.  

 

Big bottom turn for a huge right at Lafitenia – Pete McLelland  

By 4.30pm in the afternoon the RN/RM camp had vanished with all the kit packed into both vehicles ready for the long drive north to Cherbourg, just as the crowds were thinning and the sunshine and waves looking so inviting.  

After a journey of just under 10 hours, arriving at the ferry terminal in the small hours, out came the sleeping bags for 3 hours power snoozing.  Once on the ferry, the sleeping bags came out yet again with Rumplestiltskin Maloney leading the way.  With a favourable sea swell running (the same swell that had produced such great surf waves), our thoughts went back to the week’s events. Once in Poole harbour and through customs all that remained was to make it back to individual’s units and bases.  

In summary, a great opportunity for all members of the RN&RM Surfing Squad, to have surfed in warm but testing water, surf that would take you to such a high standard if you were fortunate to live in this remarkable location.  

A big thanks to all concerned, especially Colin Pryde for his sterling work both before and during the expedition, making this a well-organised and enjoyable ten days.  Some new friendships were made, with experience, which will live in all our minds for as long as we continue to surf…  

(P.S. “Has anyone seen Bueller…., anyone, …Bueller?”)  

Warren Keays-Smith                                                                                                

RM Surfing Rep   

 

Au Revoir Biarritz

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